48 hours in Edinburgh

How to Spend 48 Hours in Edinburgh, Scotland

Edinburgh, the second largest city in Scotland, is my favorite city in the world. The combination of scenic hikes, cobblestone streets, gothic churches, Greek Revival architecture, gardens, fascinating museums and variety of cuisine make it a destination that anyone can enjoy.

While I recommend spending a few days in Edinburgh if possible, you can see the main highlights in two days since the old portion both the city is fairly compact and easy to explore by foot.

Related: While you’re in Edinburgh, check out these 10 fantastic vegan restaurants

What to see:

The order in which you visit the sites below really depends on the weather. If the forecast calls for sunny weather on your first day in Edinburgh, visit the outdoor destinations and save the museums and indoor activities for the second day.

The Royal Mile
Located in the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town, the Royal Mile connects Edinburgh Castle with the Scottish Parliament and Holyrood Palace at the other end. The main street includes a mix of historical sites, such as St. Giles’ Cathedral, along with kitschy souvenir shops. Make sure to venture off the main street and explore the narrow staircases and closes.

Time spent: 1 hour

The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, Scotland
The Royal Mile.
The Royal Mile, Edinburgh
Cute little street just off the Royal Mile.
St. Giles' Cathedral on the Royal Mile, Edinburgh
St. Giles’ Cathedral on the Royal Mile

Holyrood Palace
Holyrood Palace is the Queen’s official residence while in Scotland, located near the Salisbury Crags. When the Queen is not in residence, visitors can take a tour of the palace and get a glimpse of modern royal life. On my second visit to Holyrood Palace, I was unable to tour the palace since Prince Edward was in residence. I spent a few minutes taking photos from the main gate and was able to meet his super friendly dog.

Once you’re done with the palace tour, spend some time wandering around the abbey ruins and gardens.

Time spent: 2 hours

Holyrood Palace, Edinburgh, Scotland
Holyrood Palace
Holyrood Palace, Edinburgh, Scotland
Holyrood Palace
Holyrood Palace from above, Edinburgh, Scotland
Holyrood Palace from above
Abbey Ruins at Holyrood Palace, Edinburgh, Scotland
Abbey ruins at Holyrood Palace.
Holyrood Palace Abbey Ruins and Gardens
The palace gardens and ruins.
Abbey ruins, Holyrood Palace, Edinburgh, Scotland
Inside the ruins.
Holyrood Palace unicorn
Unicorns are everywhere, if you know where to look for them.

Edinburgh Castle
Perched atop an extinct volcano, the 11th-century castle dominates Edinburgh’s skyline. Not only is the massive fortress beautiful, it’s also rich in history.

The castle served as the royal residence for Scottish Kings and Queens until the Union of the Crowns in 1603. St. Mary’s Chapel, the castle’s oldest building, was created by David I and is still used for weddings and religious ceremonies today. The Great Hall was built before the death of King James IV in 1513 and was primarily used for state assembly.

Other areas of the castle house the National War Museum, Crown Jewels and the Prisoners of War barracks, one of my favorite areas of the castle. Here you can see where Americans, French, Irish and other prisoners were housed during the American Revolution. I especially loved the sign about Americans = pirates.

Time spent: 2 hours

Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle

 

Edinburgh Castle Prisoners of War
Americans got less rations because they were pirates.
Edinburgh Castle, Scotland
Inside Edinburgh Castle.
Lion statue at Edinburgh Castle.
Lion statue at Edinburgh castle.
Scottish Parliament
Located across from Holyrood Palace, the Scottish Parliament building sits in stark contrast to the more classic buildings nearby. If Parliament is in session, you can observe the proceedings from the public gallery.Time spent: 15 minutes

The National Museum of Scotland
Perfect for a rainy day, the National Museum of Scotland houses over 20,000 artifacts from prehistoric times to recent history. My husband and I spent several hours in the museum, mostly in the Scottish history section.

Time spent: 4 hours

The National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh
The National Museum of Scotland.

Calton Hill
Calton Hill is famous for its collection of Greek-inspired monuments, giving Edinburgh the nickname “Athens of the North.”

The views from Calton Hill are spectacular and they’re even better at the top of the 143-stair Nelson Monument.

Other monuments on Calton Hill include the Dugald Stewart Monument, Old Royal High School, City Observatory and the  National Monument, created to commemorate the Napoleonic Wars.

Time spent: 1 hour

View from the Nelson Monument on Calton Hill.
View from the Nelson Monument on Calton Hill.
Calton Hill, Edinburgh
Calton Hill, overlooking Princes Street.
Calton Hill, Edinburgh, Scotland
Calton Hll, Edinburgh.
National Monument, Edinburgh.
Looking down at the National Monument from the top of the Nelson Monument.
Princes Street, Edinburgh Scotland
Princes Street, as seen from the top of Nelson Monument
Salisbury Crag, Edinburgh, Scotland
Looking towards Salisbury Crags.
Nelson Monument, Edinburgh
The Nelson Monument.

Salisbury Crags and Arthur’s Seat
Located in Holyrood Park, Salisbury Crags and Arthur’s Seat are among my favorite places in Scotland to relax and just enjoy the view. The climb up to Arthur’s Seat is steep but the views of Edinburgh are well worth the effort. If you don’t feel fit enough to make it up to Arthur’s Seat, spend time on the paths around the rim of Salisbury Craigs, where you’ll also get great views of the city. Keep your eyes peeled for the ruins of St. Anthony’s Chapel, built in the 1300s and the only remaining building in Holyrood Park.

Once you’ve finished with your hike, reward yourself with ice cream from the Mr. Whippy truck, located in the parking lot.

Time spent: 4 hours

Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh
Walking around Holyrood Park.
Arthur's Seat, Holyrood Park, Edinburgh
You can see the top of Arthur’s Seat.
Holyrood Park, Edinburgh
Walking around Holyrood Park.
St. Anthony's Chapel, Holyrood Park, Edinburgh
The ruins of St. Anthony’s Chapel
Salisbury Crags, Holyrood Park, Edinburgh
Walking around Salisbury Crags in Holyrood Park.
Salisbury Crags, Holyrood Park, Edinburgh
At the edge of Salisbury Crags

How to get around:
Edinburgh is a wonderful walking city. During my two days there, I walked everywhere and only hailed a cab once, when my feet were tired after hiking up Arthur’s Seat.

Edinburgh has an extensive network of local buses and you can take advantage of Lothian Buses DayTicket, which allows unlimited daily travel around the city.

Since Edinburgh’s streets are maze-like and parking is expensive, I do not recommend renting a car in the city.

Other helpful tips:

  • The weather in Edinburgh is very unpredictable. Always layer your clothing and bring an umbrella or a rain coat.
  • If you’re arriving from London, consider taking the train. It’s an enjoyable way to get to Edinburgh and you’ll arrive at Waverly Station, right in the center of the old city.
  • The roads are very narrow and maze-like so avoid bringing a car into the city if possible. If you’re going to explore other areas of Scotland, rent a car at the airport and go from there.

Import note: Edinburgh is actually pronounced Ed-in-bruh. I thought it was pronounced Ed-in-burg, which resulted in some funny looks. Trust me on that one.